Rockfax Description
210m. Another superb climb, with no big overlaps but a crux traverse. Pitch 4 is superb and open, the crux when pitch 3 was still tensioned. Start 10m left of the Coffin Stone at a thin peg scarred groove running up the slab.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove for 18m, move left to climb a bigger groove to reach a spike, then swing out left and belay by a tree.
2) 4c, 20m. Step right, follow the layback crack on the lip of the groove, then follow easy rock to belay on Swastika.
3) 5b, 40m. As for Swastika up the small block overlap, then traverse around its right side and up to the main overlap. Go down from the overlap and traverse delicately right into the Crevasse (best to place a high runner in the overlap, but easier to traverse lower down).
4) 5a, 40m. Gain the slab above, move into the groove on the left and climb this over a bulge to a ledge in a short left-facing corner at 15m (Long Reach belay). Traverse 3m right to a faint line of cracks and follow these to a small overlap; move right to a stance.
5) 5a, 40m. Continue up right to the right end of the higher overlap, then follow a thin crack to an easy groove which leads to a grass ledge beside an overlap.
6) 5a, 30m. Climb the overlaps on the left to the base of the terminal slab, then traverse left to an undercut edge near the right side of the slab, 5m right of The Long Reach sentry box. Climb the edge to a grass ledge.
7) 5a, 15m. The vertical corner on the left, common with The Long Wait (or finish more easily out right). © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Best slab climbs of the UK , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , MIA logbook must haves! , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Summer Trip 2014 , UK Lonely Leads , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , BoC Scottish Summer , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Scottish Climbing Best 10 E1 list? , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Slab Dreams , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Jimmy Marshall Routes , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Scotland climbing , Scottsh Adventures (Shame its not the gorge...)

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