150m, 4 pitches. The most central runnel on the NE face, below the summit of Sgorr Dhearg. This holds snow even in lean conditions, meaning that good neve can often be found even in a thaw. If starting from the col between Sgorr Bhan and Sgorr Dhearg, traverse in rightwards and down below the first buttress of rock. Behind this is a deeper runnel which can be followed for c.50m to a vague junction formed by a rocky rib above. Move rightward to follow a continuation runnel directly below the summit for another 80m. Toward the top, outflank the steeping/cornice at the top of the runnel via a vague rib to the right (30m). Whilst the lower part is likely to be at around 40° snow, this steepens to around 55 - 60° toward the top, with even steeper gradients (over vertical!) at the direct exit of the runnel.

Difficult to protect and likely a solo. Almost certainly an avalanche risk on this face if conditions are adverse.

FA unknown. Text by CW after solo ascent with SG on 29/01/2024

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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