Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the Peak's best limestone climbs and a classic of the crag. A superb central line with a well-positioned crux.
1) 4b, 28m. From the ever-dry cave, climb the slabby right wall right, then left, into the main groove. Easier climbing leads to threads (chains) under the huge overhangs.
2) 5a, 20m. Move out left and climb the short juggy rib to the bulges (several old pegs). Pull rapidly over to easier-angled ground in the groove above, continuing to belay in the big holly. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown Ron Mosley (some aid) 1954.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , The Eal List , Dunc's ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Little Rascal 17 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There is insitu abseil gear on the holly of the final stance - aprox 45-50m to the base of the route. Beware bringing loose stuff down when pulling the ropes. Tat on the crux pegs is not in the best condition but can be backed up by larks footing with a sling.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is insitu abseil gear on the holly of the final stance - aprox 45-50m to the base of the route. Beware bringing loose stuff down when pulling the ropes. Tat on the crux pegs is not in the best condition but can be backed up by larks footing with a sling.
Albachoss 15 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Turd has fledged the nest
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Turd has fledged the nest
Summit Sense 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Which ever swine left a turd on the Ivy Gash ledge 3m down from the abseil chains and couldn't be bothered to ab off and dig one in the undergrowth....I hope you don't come back and foul this crag again. Take care with your ropes, folks!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Which ever swine left a turd on the Ivy Gash ledge 3m down from the abseil chains and couldn't be bothered to ab off and dig one in the undergrowth....I hope you don't come back and foul this crag again. Take care with your ropes, folks!
Richard 261 6 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is just a way of getting to... The second pitch which is very nice, but what's the point of all the tat and rubbish people have hung round the crux. who puts this stuff on routes? (who carries a pocketful of string and tape with them when they climb?) Have these people never tried placing gear? - I must remember to take a Stanley Knife and a bin-bag with me next time. Shame the second pitch isn't a bit longer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is just a way of getting to... The second pitch which is very nice, but what's the point of all the tat and rubbish people have hung round the crux. who puts this stuff on routes? (who carries a pocketful of string and tape with them when they climb?) Have these people never tried placing gear? - I must remember to take a Stanley Knife and a bin-bag with me next time. Shame the second pitch isn't a bit longer.
JMarkW 4 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe not one of the best limestone routes in the Peak, but good nevertheless. Steady at the grade, and a great crag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Maybe not one of the best limestone routes in the Peak, but good nevertheless. Steady at the grade, and a great crag.
Chris the Tall 5 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Felt more like 5b to me, and harder than any of the moves on Pocket Symphony - I was tempted to fall off just to do the baby bouncer thing on the pegs! Brilliant exposure
βeta?
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βeta: Felt more like 5b to me, and harder than any of the moves on Pocket Symphony - I was tempted to fall off just to do the baby bouncer thing on the pegs! Brilliant exposure
Si dH 13 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was good but the crux is unobvious and strenuous, and getting on for 5b IMHO - I found it a bit desperate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought this was good but the crux is unobvious and strenuous, and getting on for 5b IMHO - I found it a bit desperate.
Wil 19 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. worth 3 stars. Conditions were odd - first snow of year with melting ice falling on route. Crag in full sun and warm though, but spoiled by wet muddy pockets on 1st pitch. Belayed from 2 good threads 4m to left (looking up) of chain - better placed. Once worked out, crux is straightfoward - solid 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. worth 3 stars. Conditions were odd - first snow of year with melting ice falling on route. Crag in full sun and warm though, but spoiled by wet muddy pockets on 1st pitch. Belayed from 2 good threads 4m to left (looking up) of chain - better placed. Once worked out, crux is straightfoward - solid 5a.
MJS 21 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The exposure and fine climbing on the second pitch make this a great route. The crux is well situated and the rest is steady 4b/c climbing. If you are looking for a good early HVS on Limestone then ths is for you.
βeta?
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βeta: The exposure and fine climbing on the second pitch make this a great route. The crux is well situated and the rest is steady 4b/c climbing. If you are looking for a good early HVS on Limestone then ths is for you.
Ropeboy 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Probably better done as a second pitch to something like Pocket Symphony. A couple of threads make this an ok route and the difficulties are short lived.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably better done as a second pitch to something like Pocket Symphony. A couple of threads make this an ok route and the difficulties are short lived.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 127
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 124
Votes cast 120
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hen Cloud Eliminate

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Hen Cloud)

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