The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
From the start of The Fly, climb the easy wall to a steep section. Move up here past threads to a junction with The Fly. Reach up right and pull onto the wall and go direct to a fixed belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the straightforward wall between Cleo’s Mood and the Fly, thread on the left, to where it steepens. Stand up, two threads, and make a difficult move to gain the Fly. Make a hard move right to a good hold, thread, and climb the easier wall above to a bolt belay
Gary Gibson 22/Feb/2018.
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(The Five Clouds)