Rockfax Description
A testing pitch with a steep and exposed finish. Move up right and then back left to a shallow corner below a flake. Climb the layback-flake and finish up a flowstone bulge. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 08/May/1989.
West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian - Need for Speed! , Portland Olympian , Dorset 2-3* 6a's , Battleship Edge Sport Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JIMBO | 12 Jul |
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βeta: A useful linkup off of the 90s is to climb this to half height and then head left up the finishing groove of Reve d'un Corbeau at about 6b. Known as 'Lazy Culture'. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A useful linkup off of the 90s is to climb this to half height and then head left up the finishing groove of Reve d'un Corbeau at about 6b. Known as 'Lazy Culture'. |
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eddie "grunty" goodey | 21 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Birds nest at 3/4 height with chicks | βeta? | |
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βeta: Birds nest at 3/4 height with chicks |
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chrishoran | 13 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: The large flake sounds very hollow. With cracks on the left there doesn't appear to be much holding it to the crag? Potentially dangerous? | βeta? | |
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βeta: The large flake sounds very hollow. With cracks on the left there doesn't appear to be much holding it to the crag? Potentially dangerous? |
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Iain Weymouth | 5 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Pleasant surprise of a 3 finger pocket just when you need it ! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pleasant surprise of a 3 finger pocket just when you need it ! |
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Morgan Woods | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: The first couple of bolts are fairly tough but once you get the lay back it's ok. At the bulge I made the maistake of going straight up and lunged for a pice of flowstone which pulled off and narrowly missed someone walking down below!! At least the tat held. Off to the left is a much better proposition. | ||
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βeta: The first couple of bolts are fairly tough but once you get the lay back it's ok. At the bulge I made the maistake of going straight up and lunged for a pice of flowstone which pulled off and narrowly missed someone walking down below!! At least the tat held. Off to the left is a much better proposition. |
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Richard Horn | 7 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Pleasantly sustained. I used the (new) foothold out right - I suspect the short may not be able to reach it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pleasantly sustained. I used the (new) foothold out right - I suspect the short may not be able to reach it! |
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steve taylor | 9 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: The aforementioned foothold is new!!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The aforementioned foothold is new!!! |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)