Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.
Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 15 May to 13 June
Reason: Other
Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
Classy. Climb the crack to its top then traverse left past the arete, where a crack and short wall lead to an escape out right. Double ropes are sensible. © Rockfax
FA. Al Austin 1958.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Bamford Edge , 2020/21 Trips , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
User | Date | Notes | ||
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cmsg | 19 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Wonderfull route, but draining. Or perhaps I'm just not fit. Can't agree about the direct though. While it seems more obvious and logical, the traditional line is simply spectacular. This route has it all. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Wonderfull route, but draining. Or perhaps I'm just not fit. Can't agree about the direct though. While it seems more obvious and logical, the traditional line is simply spectacular. This route has it all. |
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derekm | 19 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Lovely climb, do take the direct though and try to stay cool on the final traverse. There's always just enough holds, and what a situation! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely climb, do take the direct though and try to stay cool on the final traverse. There's always just enough holds, and what a situation! |
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Chris the Tall | 13 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route. Direct start seems more logical and more appealing. Sustained and slightly overhanging - didn't find the hands-free rest so was getting a bit pumped - but the gear is good. Bit reachy in the middle ? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Direct start seems more logical and more appealing. Sustained and slightly overhanging - didn't find the hands-free rest so was getting a bit pumped - but the gear is good. Bit reachy in the middle ? |
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chris sm | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. The direct version seems the logical line - not sure why you'd want to go indirect. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. The direct version seems the logical line - not sure why you'd want to go indirect. |
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Jon Greengrass | 13 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: After my partner became exhausted trying the final juggy crack, he lowered off and i climbed the lovely arete, where my partners' high point I found all the good jams in the crack blocked by the gear. Overall I thought it quite stiff for a severe | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: After my partner became exhausted trying the final juggy crack, he lowered off and i climbed the lovely arete, where my partners' high point I found all the good jams in the crack blocked by the gear. Overall I thought it quite stiff for a severe |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)