UKH

20m.

Rockfax Description
Classy - the original and best! Climb the crack to its top then traverse left past the arete, where a crack and short wall lead to an escape out right. Double ropes and some attention to their organisation is a sensible idea. © Rockfax

FA. Al Austin 1958.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Bamford Edge, 2020/21 Trips, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Definitive *** Peak Grit, To do

Feedback

User Date Notes
cmsg 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderfull route, but draining. Or perhaps I'm just not fit. Can't agree about the direct though. While it seems more obvious and logical, the traditional line is simply spectacular. This route has it all.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wonderfull route, but draining. Or perhaps I'm just not fit. Can't agree about the direct though. While it seems more obvious and logical, the traditional line is simply spectacular. This route has it all.
derekm 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climb, do take the direct though and try to stay cool on the final traverse. There's always just enough holds, and what a situation!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely climb, do take the direct though and try to stay cool on the final traverse. There's always just enough holds, and what a situation!
Chris the Tall 13 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Direct start seems more logical and more appealing. Sustained and slightly overhanging - didn't find the hands-free rest so was getting a bit pumped - but the gear is good. Bit reachy in the middle ?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Direct start seems more logical and more appealing. Sustained and slightly overhanging - didn't find the hands-free rest so was getting a bit pumped - but the gear is good. Bit reachy in the middle ?
chris sm 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. The direct version seems the logical line - not sure why you'd want to go indirect.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. The direct version seems the logical line - not sure why you'd want to go indirect.
Jon Greengrass 13 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: After my partner became exhausted trying the final juggy crack, he lowered off and i climbed the lovely arete, where my partners' high point I found all the good jams in the crack blocked by the gear. Overall I thought it quite stiff for a severe
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After my partner became exhausted trying the final juggy crack, he lowered off and i climbed the lovely arete, where my partners' high point I found all the good jams in the crack blocked by the gear. Overall I thought it quite stiff for a severe

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 164
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 164
Votes cast 158
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Joint Effort

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Staden Quarry)
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