14m.

Rockfax Description
The delicate slabby arete, or the face just left, leads to a ledge. Access the flake and a dramatic finish that will find you swinging by the gargoyles. Variations are inferior. Photographed a thousand times, almost aways from the cliff top to the right with the reservoir in the background. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Hatton 1963.

Ticklists

Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Bamford Edge , The Gritlist , 2020/21 Trips , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , The Wishlist Challenge , 24 For 2024! , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Bamford Bucks Challenge, chasing stars. , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
EdJHarley 28 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Flake mid-way up sounds hollow, don\'t pull too hard. A spectacular route, with a bit of everything. One pumpy move to get over the flake. We couldn\'t find too much protection at the start. Great photo opportunity on big jugs at the top.
Show beta
βeta: Flake mid-way up sounds hollow, don't pull too hard. A spectacular route, with a bit of everything. One pumpy move to get over the flake. We couldn't find too much protection at the start. Great photo opportunity on big jugs at the top.
PaulJepson 11 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Be very gentle with the little flake on the starting slab. Too much outward force and it'll be off, along with you tumbling back down to the ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be very gentle with the little flake on the starting slab. Too much outward force and it'll be off, along with you tumbling back down to the ground.
milanboez 5 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Easy for the grade but bloody brilliant! Maybe the best climb I've done! With a bit of everything.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy for the grade but bloody brilliant! Maybe the best climb I've done! With a bit of everything.
John Murray 7 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Chatted to climbing Coach from Kent and am trying to find his tel number
Show beta
βeta: Chatted to climbing Coach from Kent and am trying to find his tel number
RichardN 10 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Woudn't be surprised if the small black block/flake falls near bottom falls off fairly soon. It will be quite a different proposition then I expect!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Woudn't be surprised if the small black block/flake falls near bottom falls off fairly soon. It will be quite a different proposition then I expect!
Paul Tomo 24 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I did this climb in very strong wind, i didn't like the block low down but found the rest of the climb excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did this climb in very strong wind, i didn't like the block low down but found the rest of the climb excellent.
nick w 18 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: great postion on the gargoyle ,run it out for full effect !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: great postion on the gargoyle ,run it out for full effect !
Chris the Tall 13 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb fun. A bit awkward low down, but soon the massive holds just keep on coming
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb fun. A bit awkward low down, but soon the massive holds just keep on coming
shaun walby 28 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Totally enjoyable climbing with an excellent layback in the middle...just comes to end all too quickly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Totally enjoyable climbing with an excellent layback in the middle...just comes to end all too quickly.
Si dH 31 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the arete is a bit sparse protection-wise but not bad climbing. getting established on the flake is definiteyl the crux and feels quite committing
Show beta
βeta: the arete is a bit sparse protection-wise but not bad climbing. getting established on the flake is definiteyl the crux and feels quite committing

Logged Ascents

3434 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bamford Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 871 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 383
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 364
Votes cast 380
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Birch Tree Wall Direct

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

Loading Notifications...