14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the slanting flake then move right to a crack. Up this to a niche then follow a thin crack to ledges. Move back out left for a reachy exposed finale if required. Some care is needed with the protection as wires in the niche tend to lift out. © Rockfax

FA. Hugh Banner 1960.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Chatsworth to Bamford , ULMC Classics , Bamford Edge , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Bamford Bucks Challenge, chasing stars.

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 8 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Don't put cams in the polished slot under the mid-height flake. It flexes and would explode if you fell on it. There is other bomber gear around it and it would ruin the route forever if that went!
βeta?
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βeta: Don't put cams in the polished slot under the mid-height flake. It flexes and would explode if you fell on it. There is other bomber gear around it and it would ruin the route forever if that went!
Moi_taiga 24 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The block at half height will come away if given a strong pull. Don't place gear behind it!
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βeta: The block at half height will come away if given a strong pull. Don't place gear behind it!
pattif 3 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: nice and steady lead, good protection all the way up … and I am under 5‘6‘‘ (an alien or nut can be placed)
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βeta: nice and steady lead, good protection all the way up … and I am under 5‘6‘‘ (an alien or nut can be placed)
Queen of the Traverse 7 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: If you can't reach to get off the ledge about halfway up it's a lot harder than Severe!
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βeta: If you can't reach to get off the ledge about halfway up it's a lot harder than Severe!
Durkules 24 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Block a short way up seems very loose and insecure. I climbed this about a year ago and can't remember it moving as much then, so may have dislodged more recently.
βeta?
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βeta: Block a short way up seems very loose and insecure. I climbed this about a year ago and can't remember it moving as much then, so may have dislodged more recently.
LouiseCowie 8 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The block at the top of the first curved flake with the big juggy boss sounds very hollow and the next climber after us reckoned it moved.
βeta?
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βeta: The block at the top of the first curved flake with the big juggy boss sounds very hollow and the next climber after us reckoned it moved.
Sarah_JB19 6 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Small block in middle section of climb that feels loose, easy to avoid though
βeta?
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βeta: Small block in middle section of climb that feels loose, easy to avoid though
Andy Peak 1 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lose block on ledge at the top
βeta?
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βeta: Lose block on ledge at the top
Paul Tomo 24 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This was my last climb of the day and what a good climb it was and plenty of gear if you need it.
βeta?
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βeta: This was my last climb of the day and what a good climb it was and plenty of gear if you need it.
Dominion 7 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A fine route - seconded it, then led it. And you can do it in 2 pitches if you want (as per the couple who went up after I'd led it - there is a reachy move (if you are under 5ft 6in) moving off the massive ledge at just below half height. My second (5ft 4in) wasn't happy with that bit. I loved it though. My 5th Severe lead - and I know it wasn't onsight - but hoping to get a good foundation, and I'd say this is a good beginner's Severe lead...
βeta?
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βeta: A fine route - seconded it, then led it. And you can do it in 2 pitches if you want (as per the couple who went up after I'd led it - there is a reachy move (if you are under 5ft 6in) moving off the massive ledge at just below half height. My second (5ft 4in) wasn't happy with that bit. I loved it though. My 5th Severe lead - and I know it wasn't onsight - but hoping to get a good foundation, and I'd say this is a good beginner's Severe lead...
fizz 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: oooh my first Severe, totally recommended and just lovely - really really really lovely! :)
βeta?
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βeta: oooh my first Severe, totally recommended and just lovely - really really really lovely! :)
LakesWinter 26 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This is one of the finest severes in the peak, no question
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βeta: This is one of the finest severes in the peak, no question
Jon Greengrass 1 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Seconded this barefoot, lovely juggy moves and good rest ledges, A bit of a worrying move of the last ledge!
βeta?
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βeta: Seconded this barefoot, lovely juggy moves and good rest ledges, A bit of a worrying move of the last ledge!

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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 239
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 220
Votes cast 227
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Long Climb

Grade: S 4a ***
(Laddow)

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