80m, 4 pitches.
80m E1 5a ☆☆ This logical extension of the venerable traverse of Clan Union has been in the pending tray since the opening up of the right hand side of the buttress with the ascent of Lymbic Dystrophy and Rock on Ruby. Consequently the new climbing is the section between Lymbic Dystrophy to the point where it meets the original start for Hell Gates. Pitch 1: 22m Climb Lymbic Dystrophy to the initial ramp of Rock on Ruby. Belay in the niche (small wires and small cams). Pitch 2: 21m. Ascend 3m to an old peg in the break. Climb leftwards along the break, intially across an easy bay, then far more thoughtfully after the rib on Heironymous, dropping a little below the break itself to maintain the grade. Well protected for both leader and second. Pitch 3 and 4 are as Clan Union. 26-Feb-2022, Evan Hall, Colin Knowles
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Route of Interest
Harvey's Crack
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Castle Park)