Rockfax Description
A great route giving steep climbing on an uncompromising line.
Start on the ledge at the base of the wall just right of Limbo.
1) 5b, 23m. Take the right-hand line of thin cracks to ledges beneath the right side of the black bulges, thread. Steep climbing through the bulges on good pockets gains a strenuous perch at a large pocket. Pull steeply out right and up to better holds and a little further a hanging stance at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 23m. Enter the long groove above the stance and follow it all the way to ledges that allow a short traverse left to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax
Ed Drummond 27/Oct/1965.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Ultimate E1 ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Avon Gorge Starred E1s , Suspension bridge rockfax integrale , 2020/21 Trips , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Edwin Drummond - Avon Gorge , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , South West in Extremis , Avon Gorge *** Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
tomhepworth | 6 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found the rock quality at the top (ledge below bridge) to be a bit questionable in places when making an anchor. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Found the rock quality at the top (ledge below bridge) to be a bit questionable in places when making an anchor. |
||||
chigozie | 7 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Broke a peg at the top of the first pitch. Make sure to back up the pegs with your own pro! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Broke a peg at the top of the first pitch. Make sure to back up the pegs with your own pro! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 ***
(Orphaned Route Crag)