UKH

46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route giving steep climbing on an uncompromising line.
Start on the ledge at the base of the wall just right of Limbo.
1) 5b, 23m. Take the right-hand line of thin cracks to ledges beneath the right side of the black bulges, thread. Steep climbing through the bulges on good pockets gains a strenuous perch at a large pocket. Pull steeply out right and up to better holds and a little further a hanging stance at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 23m. Enter the long groove above the stance and follow it all the way to ledges that allow a short traverse left to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

Ed Drummond 27/Oct/1965.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Ultimate E1 ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Avon Gorge Starred E1s , Suspension bridge rockfax integrale , 2020/21 Trips , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Edwin Drummond - Avon Gorge , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , South West in Extremis , Avon Gorge *** Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomhepworth 6 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Found the rock quality at the top (ledge below bridge) to be a bit questionable in places when making an anchor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the rock quality at the top (ledge below bridge) to be a bit questionable in places when making an anchor.
chigozie 7 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Broke a peg at the top of the first pitch. Make sure to back up the pegs with your own pro!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Broke a peg at the top of the first pitch. Make sure to back up the pegs with your own pro!

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 93
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 88
Votes cast 89
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bathroom Buttress

Grade: E1 ***
(Orphaned Route Crag)

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