Restricted Access

Bristol City Council are obliged to maintain the fencing in this location for road safety reasons - please help them out by not damaging it when accessing the crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds, please avoid climbing Limbo and Beginnings 

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most frequented line on this little visited section of the gorge. Start at an iron spike at foot level that sticks out of the base of the crag - this is next to the flat slab of rock mentioned in the approach.
1) 4b, 20m. Move up easily to below a horizontal break and then traverse left to a flared corner and crack-line. Climb the flared corner and a bulge to a good ledge and belay
2) 4c, 20m. Climb the short crack above the stance to a ramp. Traverse the ramp left for 5m to below a flake-line in the wall above. Climb the exposed flake-line to a final mantelshelf move that gains the main ramp and belays on the back wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 4c, 20m.
2) 4c, 20m.

R A Broomhead, C Brear (P2 in 1965 by E Ward Drummond, H Drummond) 26/Nov/1985.

Ticklists

Avon VSes , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Somerset Sufferfest

Feedback

User Date Notes
rbh22 11 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Final hold pulled off - don't think it changes the grade. Quite a lot of loose bits above the belay station.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Final hold pulled off - don't think it changes the grade. Quite a lot of loose bits above the belay station.
JimOakleyAdventures 5 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great varied route with the final pull over onto the slanting terrace was fun. Did this in one long 40m pitch. Once on top 10m on back wall is solid 5” wide tree that aids the belay. From here looking right the abseil down tree/bush is around 35m away so using one of our double ropes it’s just short…. An easy scramble to reach this was fine. Nice plastic coated wire strop and mallion is hiding under the 4ft high bush/tree provided the exact 30m ab down.
Show beta
βeta: Great varied route with the final pull over onto the slanting terrace was fun. Did this in one long 40m pitch. Once on top 10m on back wall is solid 5” wide tree that aids the belay. From here looking right the abseil down tree/bush is around 35m away so using one of our double ropes it’s just short…. An easy scramble to reach this was fine. Nice plastic coated wire strop and mallion is hiding under the 4ft high bush/tree provided the exact 30m ab down.
fammer 19 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil on tree on edge of slab on the left is jank, poorly equalised on crusty tat and the tree is a bit wobblier than you'd like.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseil on tree on edge of slab on the left is jank, poorly equalised on crusty tat and the tree is a bit wobblier than you'd like.
Lankcroft 21 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Abbed about 20m right of the route's top from an in-situ cable strop around a tree
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abbed about 20m right of the route's top from an in-situ cable strop around a tree
stickyfeet 20 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: For abseil: at the back of the slab and little way off to the right (with your back to the gorge) there is a small tree with a proper abseil station. From a distance the tree looks almost too small to consider but it seems much more solid than the wobbly, taller tree in an awkward position off to the left at the edge of the slab that I know some people have been using (that one had tat and a maillon at the time of writing but doesn't look like a good option in comparison).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For abseil: at the back of the slab and little way off to the right (with your back to the gorge) there is a small tree with a proper abseil station. From a distance the tree looks almost too small to consider but it seems much more solid than the wobbly, taller tree in an awkward position off to the left at the edge of the slab that I know some people have been using (that one had tat and a maillon at the time of writing but doesn't look like a good option in comparison).
Phil Murray 22 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some early holds have changed in the past year. Be cautious.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some early holds have changed in the past year. Be cautious.
badgerjockey 2 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Awkward abseil tree at the top of the slab held up fine but for how much longer?
Show beta
βeta: Awkward abseil tree at the top of the slab held up fine but for how much longer?

Logged Ascents

280 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area)

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 51
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Giant's Cave Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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