Restricted Access

Bristol City Council are obliged to maintain the fencing in this location for road safety reasons - please help them out by not damaging it when accessing the crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds, please avoid climbing Limbo and Beginnings 

60m, 2 pitches. An adventurous outing up a less travelled part of the buttress. Rock quality improves after the first 10m. Starts 5m right of the large earthy rightwards diagonal break taken by Wormlands.
1) 4c, 40m. Climb the wall on poor rock for 10m. Cross easy slabs to reach a groove system on the left. (Rock improves from here). Climb grooves until a ledge appears on the right (good runners). From here continue up the groove system to reach the leftwards diagonal faultline above. Step right under a small nose and climb an awkward short shallow corner to reach a good belay.
2) 4c, 20m. Trend initially right then straight up to the base of a prominent left-facing shallow corner (belay possible 3m left). Climb the corner, or its arĂȘte, trending right near the top to the headwall, which is climbed to the right of two metal plates to the exit of choice.

David Radley, Colin Knowles 16/May/2009.

Ticklists

CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
jamieevans 6 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Can ab from the tree on 50's. Just.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can ab from the tree on 50's. Just.
FerClimbs 19 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Needs rock and vegetation cleaning but it is a good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs rock and vegetation cleaning but it is a good route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 5
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hell Gates

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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