Fun and intriguing climbing that gives a memorable outing.Start at a ledge just to the left of a slim curving crack on the right side of the face.1) 5a, 20m. Climb the wall just left of the crack, joining it at 4m. Follow the crack to ledges and a massive thread just above. Pull steeply through the bulge, thread, and continue past another thread to a body-size circular cave. Belay in the cave, and be sure to search out and sign the visitors' log book. Alternatively; from just below the massive thread, traverse up and rightwards to the base of a small corner and follow this to the lower of two horizontal breaks. Traverse the break left, past a peg, to the body-size circular cave. 2) 5a, 12m. Climb steeply out of the cave on the right, peg, and follow a short groove to easier ground and belay on a ledge.3) 4b, 14m. Traverse left around the exposed arete into a corner (junction with Earl of Perth). Continue traversing left for 5m to a peg and climb up 5m to an abseil point at a large metal rock anchor. © Rockfax
Ed Drummond 15/May/1965.
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