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80m.

Rockfax Description
A long and very popular route most suited to those who appreciate an audience. The climbing is fairly tricky in places but the belays are comfortable and the views of the suspension bridge spectacular. Start on a sloping ledge at the toe of the buttress with good nut belays in a small corner.
1) 4c, 25m. Move up and step right to a small corner just right of the arete. Make some technical moves on sloping holds up the small corner, before it becomes possible to move back left onto the front face of the buttress and climb a narrow corner to a bulging arete above, peg. Pull awkwardly left around the arete and climb to easier ground that leads to a large belay beneath an overhang.
2) 4a, 23m. Skirt the overhang on the left before heading back right and following short walls and ledges up to another large belay ledge below an overhanging wall.
3) 4c, 25m. Pull left around the arete to a hand-ledge and make a difficult move up to attain a standing position on it. Move left a little way to a corner and climb up to a ledge. Continue up the wall above to a corner and climb this before trending slightly right to the top. © Rockfax

A Hicklin, F E Bennett 1958.

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Avon VSes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Avon VS challenge, No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff), CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, South West Classic VS's, UK Sandbags, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS, Avon Gorge easier classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
jing 21 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Loose hold at the start of P1, another one when you move left to the front of rib. Generally a little bit loose - so be careful! Still a good route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose hold at the start of P1, another one when you move left to the front of rib. Generally a little bit loose - so be careful! Still a good route though.
Nickuk 21 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Started in the rain and ended in the sun. Some good heart flutter moments on each pitch. Almost lost a nut and a shoe. Thanks to the guys following for retrieving both. Probably favourite of the gorge so far
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Started in the rain and ended in the sun. Some good heart flutter moments on each pitch. Almost lost a nut and a shoe. Thanks to the guys following for retrieving both. Probably favourite of the gorge so far
plant_based_tommo 24 May Show βeta
βeta: A touch airy at times.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A touch airy at times.
Alistair Cole 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Big loose chunk of rock at the start of second pitch, second pitch generally a bit loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big loose chunk of rock at the start of second pitch, second pitch generally a bit loose.
alvaroBV 29 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock on last pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock on last pitch
Phil Murray 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: No pegs at 1st belay anymore. Build one. and make it good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No pegs at 1st belay anymore. Build one. and make it good.

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 130
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 126
Votes cast 133
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set