Loading Notifications...
55m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A shy gem of a climb that builds to a dramatic climax in its upper reaches. The first pitch is vegetated but the holds are clean. Start at the well-worn gearing-up spot as for The Blik.
1) 10m. Climb up rightwards on easy but vegetated ground to a good belay ledge right of a projecting block.
2) 4c, 27m. Continue above the belay and take the line left of the overhang (double pegs) that ends at a bulge. Move right and up past a peg with difficulty to an open corner and belay ledge.
3) 4c, 18m. Climb up to the overhang, pegs, and traverse left beneath them for 6m to where they fade. Move up past double pegs to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

M Thompson, R Harris 1961.

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon VSes, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, Avon VS challenge, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS, Avon Gorge easier classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
lieraza 11 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Quite scary in its current form, P2 has big run out between pegs (where the blocks used to be) - climbing not too tricky but you wouldn't want to goose it up ... P3: contains a loose block; is very peg-dependent (and pegs are looking a bit aged). EDIT: believe a new peg has arrived on P2 (thanks Colin), haven't climbed it again yet but presume is nicer now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite scary in its current form, P2 has big run out between pegs (where the blocks used to be) - climbing not too tricky but you wouldn't want to goose it up ... P3: contains a loose block; is very peg-dependent (and pegs are looking a bit aged). EDIT: believe a new peg has arrived on P2 (thanks Colin), haven't climbed it again yet but presume is nicer now.
mountaindavet 9 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Some of the blocks on the first 4c pitch have fallen down and the route is now bolder. The block on the second 4c pitch that you put gear in before doing the traverse is loose. This route is now quite dangerous at the VS grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some of the blocks on the first 4c pitch have fallen down and the route is now bolder. The block on the second 4c pitch that you put gear in before doing the traverse is loose. This route is now quite dangerous at the VS grade.
Jonno30 8 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Got stuck trying to gain the triangular ledge on p2. Guidebook says: 'Take the borehole above two scoops and then step right. Move up a scoop and use a jammed (you hope!) flake to step up right onto a small triangular ledge on a slight exposed arête.' Checked the photos on UKC and I think the jammed flake and another block that match the description have fallen down. There's a couple of blocks on the ground that have distinct mineral markings that match those on the rocks in the triangular ledge area. Couldn't figure out the new sequence and downclimbed but think it's do able if you don't mind a further bold move.
 
Show beta
βeta: Got stuck trying to gain the triangular ledge on p2. Guidebook says: 'Take the borehole above two scoops and then step right. Move up a scoop and use a jammed (you hope!) flake to step up right onto a small triangular ledge on a slight exposed arête.' Checked the photos on UKC and I think the jammed flake and another block that match the description have fallen down. There's a couple of blocks on the ground that have distinct mineral markings that match those on the rocks in the triangular ledge area. Couldn't figure out the new sequence and downclimbed but think it's do able if you don't mind a further bold move.
samsebways 30 May Show βeta
βeta: Went for a little evening ascent yesterday but didn't make it up the first scramble pitch. The combination of copious brambles and loose rock resulted in me pulling a block off and taking a whip. Would recommend against soloing the first pitch due to the rock quality.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Went for a little evening ascent yesterday but didn't make it up the first scramble pitch. The combination of copious brambles and loose rock resulted in me pulling a block off and taking a whip. Would recommend against soloing the first pitch due to the rock quality.
RSabin 2 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose rock right at the begginning of pitch. Plenty of pegs to cover pitches two and three so very little gear needed, although they seem flaky so maybe it´s a good idea to add some extra protection for safety.
 
Show beta
βeta: Some loose rock right at the begginning of pitch. Plenty of pegs to cover pitches two and three so very little gear needed, although they seem flaky so maybe it´s a good idea to add some extra protection for safety.

Logged Ascents

463 users have logged this
75 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 63
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Giant's Cave Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))