50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An Avon trade route that, although polished, is still a very classy piece of climbing. It is worth noting that the long run-out on the second pitch is not polished. Start at a corner, right of some vegetation. High in the grade.
1) 4a, 12m. Bridge up the corner to below a small overhang and cracked block. Traverse left awkwardly and move up to a small tree and belay ledge just above.
2) 4a, 22m. Pull out right to a ledge beneath a corner. Move up and right around the arete and follow the magnificent line of good holds and ledges boldly rightwards and up to a grassy ledge. Continue to the next grassy ledge and a bolted belay.
3) 4a, 20m. On the right is a right-slanting corner. Traverse to below it and then traverse right again for around 4m to a line of well-used holds on the wall. Climb the wall to an easing and then head left on easy ground to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
April 2018 Fir Tree belay currently unstable. Do not use the cable for abseiling. The tree is awaiting BMC safety inspection and may be removed.

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Avon sub-VSes , South West Climbs for a Northerner , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , The Avon Gorge Severe Challenge , Every HS in Avon Gorge , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Avon GORGEous , Avon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lykul 5 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route, really enjoyable climbing that is polished in places but manageable. Easy anchors just watch out for the dead trees (1st pitch and third pitch belays).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice route, really enjoyable climbing that is polished in places but manageable. Easy anchors just watch out for the dead trees (1st pitch and third pitch belays).
duncan 16 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The small tree (top of P1) has died. Other gear possibilities exist.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The small tree (top of P1) has died. Other gear possibilities exist.
PaulJepson 9 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There has been some rockfall at the top of the final pitch on the right (sometimes used as a belay). Not in a particularly precipitous area but just something to be aware of. Would recommend belaying off the tree & cam belay further back and left and keeping climbers and ropes well clear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There has been some rockfall at the top of the final pitch on the right (sometimes used as a belay). Not in a particularly precipitous area but just something to be aware of. Would recommend belaying off the tree & cam belay further back and left and keeping climbers and ropes well clear.
darren hudson 5 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Large tree has now been removed
Show beta
βeta: Large tree has now been removed

Logged Ascents

1602 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area)

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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 136
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 122
Votes cast 116
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Madiba

Grade: S 3b ***
(Black Rocks (Eastville Park))

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