20m. With a new lease of life, the route gives enjoyable stress-free climbing with consistent good protection.
Start up the left side of the rib (small wire) and step across onto a ledge and a welcoming vertical nut slot ('hexs' useful). Climb the rib past two bolt runners to a slabby section (small wires) and the top of a projecting diamond-shaped block (bolt out on the left). From the niche above (hidden old peg), reach leftwards over the remaining bulge to another old peg (and good 1.5 + 2 cams) before traversing out left and stepping up onto a short slab. Finish past a final redundant peg to a shared double ring abseil station immediately above on the apex of the rib.

Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with two extra bolts added in 2012.

G A Jenkin, M Ward 4/3/1989 04/Mar/1989.

Ticklists

CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 27 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Keep a Dragon Cam 1/Friend 0.5 to back up the hidden last peg, just above the final bulge
Show beta
βeta: Keep a Dragon Cam 1/Friend 0.5 to back up the hidden last peg, just above the final bulge
tomdale 14 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Is it a trad route, or just run-out sport?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is it a trad route, or just run-out sport?

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Suspense

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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