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67m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long and popular trip that has masses of interesting climbing punctuated with good belay ledges. The climbing is fairly tough in places but these sections are well-protected. Begin at a short wall just right of the thin crack at the start of Gronk.
1) 4a, 28m. Boulder up the short steep wall to a big ledge and a good nut runner. Wander right to an easy-angled blocky corner. Follow the corner for a couple of moves until easy-angled slabs and short walls lead back leftwards to a belay in a little bay at a tall white-stained flake.
2) 16m. Layback up to the top of the flake and move right and up. Continue up short walls slightly right until a move left gains easy ground and a block covered belay ledge which is below a corner with an intermittent wide crack in it.
3) 10m. Climb the corner to an old peg and overcome the next section of the corner by moving right and up. Continue to a good stance on the right. Climbing the corner and wide crack direct is much harder.
4) 12m. Move up to below a small bush and then climb diagonally right to a ledge and the top. © Rockfax

M Rhodes 1956.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon sub-VSes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS, Memorable Climbs, No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff), CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), I want a Pasty!, Avon Gorge easier classics

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User Date Notes
jlloyd237 13 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Peg on 3rd pitch is currently unusable (bent flat against wall), but you can get some good (smaller) wires in the crack alongside it.
 
Show beta
βeta: Peg on 3rd pitch is currently unusable (bent flat against wall), but you can get some good (smaller) wires in the crack alongside it.
mthr 13 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Peg on p3 is unusable although not essential, remember your small wires
 
Show beta
βeta: Peg on p3 is unusable although not essential, remember your small wires
Bobling 1 Aug Show βeta
βeta: First moves from ground disappearing under weeds forcing the route onto Grink! Cleared huge footledge but it won't stay cleared for long.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First moves from ground disappearing under weeds forcing the route onto Grink! Cleared huge footledge but it won't stay cleared for long.
Manton 11 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Did the 5th pitch, up the wall at the end of pitch 4 traverse. Probably the best pitch of the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did the 5th pitch, up the wall at the end of pitch 4 traverse. Probably the best pitch of the route.
lilyinnesjones 15 Jun Show βeta
βeta: the youths threw full plastic bottle of fanta at our heads. don’t forget your helmet !!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the youths threw full plastic bottle of fanta at our heads. don’t forget your helmet !!
will_mcmahon 25 May Show βeta
βeta: Lost 2 nuts on it, however a great expedition on an easier multi pitch which was great fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lost 2 nuts on it, however a great expedition on an easier multi pitch which was great fun.
harrylusted 20 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Nut got stuck on P2. Wild Country size 3. Potential crag swag for someone
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nut got stuck on P2. Wild Country size 3. Potential crag swag for someone
MarkH55 11 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Use your head and you can avoid most of the polish. First time I've climbed it since 1991, surprised by how much I enjoyed it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Use your head and you can avoid most of the polish. First time I've climbed it since 1991, surprised by how much I enjoyed it.
Martin Southville 5 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Almost all foot holds are polished, encouraging an unfamiliar, arm-heavy climbing style that you probably didn't train for. As such, the crux of each pitch feels like you are doing a 5c with your arms and not using your legs enough. Be mentally prepared for that weirdness and it's probably a fun challenge rather than a sketchy surprise. Certainly different to what it would have been in 1956.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Almost all foot holds are polished, encouraging an unfamiliar, arm-heavy climbing style that you probably didn't train for. As such, the crux of each pitch feels like you are doing a 5c with your arms and not using your legs enough. Be mentally prepared for that weirdness and it's probably a fun challenge rather than a sketchy surprise. Certainly different to what it would have been in 1956.
IVDanz 5 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Strong route, quite hard on the corner. Overall good climb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Strong route, quite hard on the corner. Overall good climb
LeighH 4 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose in places
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose in places

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