95m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fascinating outing that takes in plenty of exciting situations and has some surprisingly difficult moves. The first pitch is at the top of the grade and care is needed to protect the second on the traverses on pitches 3 and 4. Start at a short, well-scratched thin crack.
1) 4c, 26m. Climb up past the crack and continue in the same line to a peg and a couple of good nuts just above. Gain the ledge above via a perplexing move before heading left to a short corner that ends at vegetated ledges. Various belays.
2) 4b, 10m. Above are two corners right of a big blank wall with bolts in it. Climb up the right-hand corner for a metre or so and move right out to the arete and flake crack just beyond. Climb the flake crack to a good ledge in a corner up and left. Poor belays.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb out right and make some awkward moves diagonally rightwards to a perch on a small ledge. Step down and right and move into the wide corner-crack which is climbed to a ledge belay. It is probably wise to place a runner in the diagonal break above the belay in order to protect the second on the traverse.
4) 4b, 20m. Follow the exposed left-trending diagonal breaks with good gear and holds to a belay.
5) 4a, 10m. Climb the corner above the tree to the first overhang, pull left to an easy gully and finish up this, © Rockfax

B Annette, M Thompson Feb/1961.

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon VSes , CUMC Ticklist , Avon VS challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Classic VS's , 2020/21 Trips , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , BSR multipitch routes , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , 24 For 2024! , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Somerset Sufferfest , Avon GORGEous

Feedback

User Date Notes
jamieevans 25 May Show βeta
βeta: Good wire, 3 or offset 4 at the first pitch crux, don't just trust the peg.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good wire, 3 or offset 4 at the first pitch crux, don't just trust the peg.
jamesb101 1 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with a spicy (but great) traverse
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with a spicy (but great) traverse
jwtbids 23 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: fell on first pitch piton and badly broke ankle, be careful
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: fell on first pitch piton and badly broke ankle, be careful
Gazmataz 6 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We had to abandon due to injury and failing light. Left an anchor at belay 2. Would much appreciate it if you find it. Thanks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We had to abandon due to injury and failing light. Left an anchor at belay 2. Would much appreciate it if you find it. Thanks
KKormos 2 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing with some awesome exposure. Make sure to take plenty of small wires.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing with some awesome exposure. Make sure to take plenty of small wires.
ParzivaltheWalrus 9 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lead pitch 1 and 2, a few spicy moves. Finished up the last pitch of Mobius due to time constraints
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead pitch 1 and 2, a few spicy moves. Finished up the last pitch of Mobius due to time constraints
Mbowell 20 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Tree at end of the long traverse pitch is now gone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tree at end of the long traverse pitch is now gone.
Colin Knowles 11 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Another belay alternative at the end of the long traverse is to use the sturdy hawthorn below the defunct ash along with cam placements in the traverse
Show beta
βeta: Another belay alternative at the end of the long traverse is to use the sturdy hawthorn below the defunct ash along with cam placements in the traverse
Steve Bartle 21 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The tree 'belay' at the end of the big traverse (P3 if using the newer Avon guide, P4 in the UKC description) is really bad and half rotten at the base, so don't use that as a belay. Good nut placements in the crack above
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The tree 'belay' at the end of the big traverse (P3 if using the newer Avon guide, P4 in the UKC description) is really bad and half rotten at the base, so don't use that as a belay. Good nut placements in the crack above
supermembrane 19 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun. Varied climbing with plenty of excitement. Interesting move on p1 above the peg. The first traverse to the right felt nice and exposed with no gear. Be careful not to climb too high up beforehand and miss the step down. Final traverse was superb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun. Varied climbing with plenty of excitement. Interesting move on p1 above the peg. The first traverse to the right felt nice and exposed with no gear. Be careful not to climb too high up beforehand and miss the step down. Final traverse was superb
jing 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo incorrect on P3. The traverse line to the right is too high in the picture. You need to step down lower than that. Our leader went straight to the traverse on P4 following some chalk marks. It's possible but much harder than VS. we tried the finger traverse matching the rockfax topo but it isn't plausible at VS. Stepping lower than the topo matches the description and feels VS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax topo incorrect on P3. The traverse line to the right is too high in the picture. You need to step down lower than that. Our leader went straight to the traverse on P4 following some chalk marks. It's possible but much harder than VS. we tried the finger traverse matching the rockfax topo but it isn't plausible at VS. Stepping lower than the topo matches the description and feels VS.
harrylusted 28 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Got lost going up instead of down before the first traverse. Nearly cried. Great route
Show beta
βeta: Got lost going up instead of down before the first traverse. Nearly cried. Great route
chigozie 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The traverse across a slab on pitch 3 is tricky and unprotected, easier (though less fun) to go lower rather than crimping the horizontal crack
Show beta
βeta: The traverse across a slab on pitch 3 is tricky and unprotected, easier (though less fun) to go lower rather than crimping the horizontal crack
plant_based_tommo 4 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: pretty spices for VS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pretty spices for VS
brrrake 29 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 3 could use some smaller wires (micro stoppers?) in places. The end of P3 felt pretty exposed, but none of the moves particularly difficult. Don\'t forget to bring cash for ice cream at the top- they didn\'t take card :[
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 3 could use some smaller wires (micro stoppers?) in places. The end of P3 felt pretty exposed, but none of the moves particularly difficult. Don't forget to bring cash for ice cream at the top- they didn't take card :[

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Giant's Cave Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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