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77m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An airy voyage taking in some of the Main Wall's best positions. The climbing is very sustained and some of it serious. Nevertheless, the gear - when present - is good. The first pitch is dangerously loose, however the original start to Malbogies provides a worthy alternative. Start at a small tree on a ledge down and right of Malbogies.
1) 5a, 23m. Move up the blunt rib on the left to a gap between two overhangs and pull up right into a corner. Climb the corner (very loose) to an overhang and bush (thread above). Pull over the overhang and move left to the shattered wall of Malbogies. Follow the wall and corner to the first stance of Malbogies.
1a) 5b, 23m. The Original Malbogies Start. From the Malbogies stance, move up a right-trending groove to a slim overhang and a peg. Pull over and climb the wall above with difficulty to a ledge. Continue as for Malbogies to its first stance.
2) 5b, 28m. Downclimb from the stance for 5m and traverse left on good holds before moving up to good small wires. Move left again and then down to a small overhung niche. Reach left to good holds and move up to a peg. Climb the excellent groove past a peg to the overhang and traverse left for 6m to a peg and large cam belay.
3) 5b, 26m. Traverse back right for 3m to a gap in the overhangs and make a puzzling move up to get established above them. Climb the groove and wall on its left past various pegs to an overhang and move out left around the blunt arete. Finish up the easier wall. © Rockfax

E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill 01/May/1966.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), So you think your an Avon Climber?

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Claw 8 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Properly cleared the brambles from the top (June 2020) and left a short length of blue nylon rope to assist with topping out as there are still layers of ivy on the edge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Properly cleared the brambles from the top (June 2020) and left a short length of blue nylon rope to assist with topping out as there are still layers of ivy on the edge.
Ell 28 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I heartily second the feedback from masa-alpin. Prepare for some bullshit gardening on one of the Avon's finest top-outs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I heartily second the feedback from masa-alpin. Prepare for some bullshit gardening on one of the Avon's finest top-outs.
masa-alpin 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 as described in Rockfax Southwest had a bush in the middle as of 2019 August. Malbogies Direct Start is OK. At the top, we had to go through horrendous (and painful) brambly bush as of 2019 August.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 as described in Rockfax Southwest had a bush in the middle as of 2019 August. Malbogies Direct Start is OK. At the top, we had to go through horrendous (and painful) brambly bush as of 2019 August.

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High E3
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High E1
Mid E1
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Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lich Gates

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))