UKH

57m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.

1) 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs which may be missing. Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Head rightwards and up a broken rib before climbing back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, to an exit left at the top. © Rockfax

C J S Bonington, G Francis, H H M Rogers 23/Oct/1957.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The Main Wall Mal Challenge , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Bogies Challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Hard Rock 2020 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Hard Rock 2020 , 2020/21 Trips , The post lockdown local list , Avon HVS challenge , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , So you think your an Avon Climber? , 32 By 32 , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Cyrees 21 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Broken hold above the overlap on P2. Take care and back up your gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Broken hold above the overlap on P2. Take care and back up your gear.
antoneh 21 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a big block off at the traverse left..looked solid, but what do I know.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a big block off at the traverse left..looked solid, but what do I know.
Tall Oak 17 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loathed this the first time I went up and subsequently stayed clear from the gorge as thought it was all polished. Today however I loved everything about it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loathed this the first time I went up and subsequently stayed clear from the gorge as thought it was all polished. Today however I loved everything about it.
Steve Bartle 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Immediately above the 2nd belay is a sapling and at the base of it is a large juggy flake. Despite it being the obvious hold I would really avoid hauling on it or placing too much weight on it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Immediately above the 2nd belay is a sapling and at the base of it is a large juggy flake. Despite it being the obvious hold I would really avoid hauling on it or placing too much weight on it!
val.ismaili 20 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Black tricam in the left pocket is better than the red tricam in the right pocket.
Show beta
βeta: Black tricam in the left pocket is better than the red tricam in the right pocket.
hpm2105 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic climb. P1: Start is a bit confusing and bold (I think I did a hybrid of the two options) but it gets progressively easier after that. P2: quite straightforward with good protection throughout.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic climb. P1: Start is a bit confusing and bold (I think I did a hybrid of the two options) but it gets progressively easier after that. P2: quite straightforward with good protection throughout.
Colin Knowles 29 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The two ash belay trees at the base are suffering from ash dieback, as is the ash tree below the belay on pitch 1.
Show beta
βeta: The two ash belay trees at the base are suffering from ash dieback, as is the ash tree below the belay on pitch 1.
Katsmiff 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The nut and peg belay is no longer as I removed the nut. So now peg and peg belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The nut and peg belay is no longer as I removed the nut. So now peg and peg belay.
Euan Todd 1 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rock #3 and red tricam make the crux quite well protected.
Show beta
βeta: Rock #3 and red tricam make the crux quite well protected.

Logged Ascents

866 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Main Area)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 186 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 137
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 128
Votes cast 131
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Central Route

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))

Loading Notifications...