Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. A classic. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.
1) 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs (as for Central Wall). Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.
2) 4b, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Move rightwards and up a broken rib before heading back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, passing a peg, to an exit left at the very top. © Rockfax
C J S Bonington, G Francis, H H M Rogers 23/Oct/1957.
Hard Rock, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The Main Wall Mal Challenge, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Bogies Challenge, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Hard Rock 2020, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Hard Rock 2020, 2020/21 Trips, The post lockdown local list, Avon HVS challenge, Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS, So you think your an Avon Climber?, 31 By 31
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