Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.
1) 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs which may be missing. Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Head rightwards and up a broken rib before climbing back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, to an exit left at the top. © Rockfax
C J S Bonington, G Francis, H H M Rogers 23/Oct/1957.
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