Rockfax Description
Stylish and exposed climbing up the left side of the buttress. Start on a belay ledge beneath a black streaked groove.
1) 5a, 20m. From the left side of the ledge take a narrow, diagonal ramp out leftwards to two good hidden pegs at the base of a white wall. Climb the wall to another peg and then move up and left to a big quarry spike just left of the arete. Move around to the left side of the arete and climb up over an overhang and belay below a rickety tree.
2) 4c, 16m. Move rightwards onto the face and make intricate moves right to the base of a shallow groove in the centre of the face. Climb the groove past a peg, all the way to a large tree at the top of the crag. © Rockfax
G Lyne, T Taylor (pitch 1) 1963, F E Bennett (pitch 2), E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill (direct start) 1966.
Ticklists
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Bristol 1st E1s , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Avon Gorge Starred E1s , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , South West in Extremis , Avon GORGEous
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tall Oak | 8 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Lead clean P1. Classic Avon - no pro and rusty pitons. Nice to reach the spike. P2 was easy and fun | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead clean P1. Classic Avon - no pro and rusty pitons. Nice to reach the spike. P2 was easy and fun |
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| Euan Todd | 10 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Rock quality fairly poor in the upper groove on P2. There's cracks for gear, but I think the gear would just take the rock off as well, so better not to place at all. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rock quality fairly poor in the upper groove on P2. There's cracks for gear, but I think the gear would just take the rock off as well, so better not to place at all. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Main Area)
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The Frome Valley Assault Course Challenge
Grade: E1 ***
(Snuff Mills Park)