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36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stylish and exposed climbing up the left side of the buttress. Start on a belay ledge beneath a black-streaked groove.
1) 5a, 20m. From the left side of the ledge take a narrow, diagonal ramp out leftwards to two good hidden pegs at the base of a white wall. Climb the wall to another peg and then move up and left to a big quarry-spike just left of the arete. Move around to the left side of the arete and climb up over an overhang and belay below a rickety tree.
2) 4c, 16m. Move rightwards onto the face and make intricate moves right to the base of a shallow groove in the centre of the face. Climb the groove past a peg, all the way to a large tree at the top of the crag. Walk off or abseil from the tree. © Rockfax

G Lyne, T Taylor (pitch 1) 1963, F E Bennett (pitch 2), E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill (direct start) 1966.

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Bristol 1st E1s, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Avon Gorge Starred E1s

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User Date Notes
Euan Todd 10 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Rock quality fairly poor in the upper groove on P2. There's cracks for gear, but I think the gear would just take the rock off as well, so better not to place at all.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock quality fairly poor in the upper groove on P2. There's cracks for gear, but I think the gear would just take the rock off as well, so better not to place at all.

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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 49
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Harvey's Crack

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Castle Park)