36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stylish and exposed climbing up the left side of the buttress. Start on a belay ledge beneath a black streaked groove.
1) 5a, 20m. From the left side of the ledge take a narrow, diagonal ramp out leftwards to two good hidden pegs at the base of a white wall. Climb the wall to another peg and then move up and left to a big quarry spike just left of the arete. Move around to the left side of the arete and climb up over an overhang and belay below a rickety tree.
2) 4c, 16m. Move rightwards onto the face and make intricate moves right to the base of a shallow groove in the centre of the face. Climb the groove past a peg, all the way to a large tree at the top of the crag. © Rockfax

G Lyne, T Taylor (pitch 1) 1963, F E Bennett (pitch 2), E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill (direct start) 1966.

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Bristol 1st E1s , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Avon Gorge Starred E1s , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , South West in Extremis , Avon GORGEous

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 8 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lead clean P1. Classic Avon - no pro and rusty pitons. Nice to reach the spike. P2 was easy and fun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead clean P1. Classic Avon - no pro and rusty pitons. Nice to reach the spike. P2 was easy and fun
Euan Todd 10 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rock quality fairly poor in the upper groove on P2. There's cracks for gear, but I think the gear would just take the rock off as well, so better not to place at all.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock quality fairly poor in the upper groove on P2. There's cracks for gear, but I think the gear would just take the rock off as well, so better not to place at all.

Logged Ascents

241 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Main Area)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 50 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 52
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Limbo

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

Loading Notifications...