Rockfax Description
A classic and very bold line that gives a memorable climb. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of the Exhibition Slab, as for Piton Route.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb straight up the blunt rib to a horizontal break, peg. Climb past the break on the right with difficulty and continue straight up to a second break and overlap, pegs. Pull over and climb boldly up and left, to gain a left-facing flake. Once again climb boldly up and left to a belay on a small sloping ledge below the midpoint of a red leaning wall. Poor bolt, good medium cam, peg and nuts up to the left.
2) 5a, 27m. Move right under the steep wall, pegs, until a dramatic step around the overhangs can be made to gain a good horizontal slot. Step right and up past a hidden pocket in the steep wall to a final pull over the lip that gains an easy slab above. Continue to the top past several small trees (possible belays). © Rockfax
Ticklists
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Avon Gorge Starred E1s , So you think your an Avon Climber? , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , South West in Extremis , Avon Gorge *** Routes , Avon GORGEous
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kiddie68 | 30 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: No bolt at belay, but nut and cam slot is bomber, with some remaining pegs up to right. Rockfax description of top pitch appears to be the direct version (pitch 2a in the current CC guide). Whilst this would make the grade (E1 5a) consistent with the first pitch, it does add a scary mantle above a poor sideways nut, which is easily avoided to the right, as per CC description. (Maybe if it wasn't wet and slimy, as it was today, then the move wouldn't be too bad!) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: No bolt at belay, but nut and cam slot is bomber, with some remaining pegs up to right. Rockfax description of top pitch appears to be the direct version (pitch 2a in the current CC guide). Whilst this would make the grade (E1 5a) consistent with the first pitch, it does add a scary mantle above a poor sideways nut, which is easily avoided to the right, as per CC description. (Maybe if it wasn't wet and slimy, as it was today, then the move wouldn't be too bad!) |
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| knighty | 24 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a small column of rock that I used as a pinch on the first pitch that was incredibly loose. The flake in the middle of the run out on p1 was also loose/wobbly. Watch out for this. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There is a small column of rock that I used as a pinch on the first pitch that was incredibly loose. The flake in the middle of the run out on p1 was also loose/wobbly. Watch out for this. |
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Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Main Area)
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Harvey's Crack
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Castle Park)