July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
The furthest left arete of the level. Follow the sharp arete on its right-hand side with occasional excursions right onto the slab. Finish with unusual moves in a fine position on the very crest of the undercut upper arete. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The arete at the extreme L end of the "Below Pans" level. Gain the start by stepping down a small wall at the extreme L end of this level or by traversing R from the start of A Grand Day Out. Climb the arete on its R side with occasional excursions on to the slab. Finish with unusual moves in a dramatic position on the hanging upper arete.
C. Struthers, H Walmsley 10/Nov/2013.
Slate ArĂȘtes (sport) , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+ , Slate Mastery , Covid19 Summer Slate Targets , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Slate Pyramid , Slate Goals , Recommended Slate
User | Date | Notes | ||
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BarwoodP | 8 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: That end is crazy. super fun | βeta? | |
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βeta: That end is crazy. super fun |
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Paul Robertson | 10 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: When lowering, take care not to swing around the arete, particularly low down where you could hit some sharp boulders | βeta? | |
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βeta: When lowering, take care not to swing around the arete, particularly low down where you could hit some sharp boulders |
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Grade: 6c+ ***
(Minllyn Quarry)