Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

27m.

Rockfax Description
More bolts lead up the slab just right of The Gorbals. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The central line on the Gorbals Slab, right of The Gorbals. A good slab climb with a thin, (think finger nails) crux at the top. 8 bolts protect to a lower off.

Ian Lloyd-Jones 06/Jun/2011.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Rarely repeated Slate Sport 7's , Sl@teheads Sl@te , The Llanberis list

Feedback

User Date Notes
BarwoodP 15 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Hard crux, couldnt do it, thin credit cards to stand on and to come out of. Fun climb otherwise, will try again
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard crux, couldnt do it, thin credit cards to stand on and to come out of. Fun climb otherwise, will try again

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Geordie War Cry

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Bus Stop Quarry)

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