Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

15m.

Rockfax Description
The original line of this wall used to start up the tube... until it fell down! Traverse out across the slab passing a bolt before moving up and right to the rusty spike. From here, follow the groove up and left past a cam slot. A hard move past a bolt leads to easier climbing to the level above. Belay way back off a spike and bolt at the base of the wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A curious route above the broken pipe which is fast becoming popular. It has a reputation for being bold in places. Having tethered your belayer down, make a delicate rising traverse rightwards across the slab, past a bolt, to the rusting chain (sling at top) and slanting crack. Climb this via another bolt to finish.

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Welsh Slate Trad , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , LSMC to do , The Llanberis list , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slab Dreams , Year 2 ticklist , Llidberis , Slate Goals , Dewimpification , Top 25 routes , Recommended Slate , British Rock Tour April '24 , UKC Route Spotlight (insta)

Feedback

User Date Notes
jamiespiers 20 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: HVS, never E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HVS, never E1
David Clover 25 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Double up on cam size 4 if you value holding power....
Show beta
βeta: Double up on cam size 4 if you value holding power....
Becky Habgood 23 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Bolt near top spins!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bolt near top spins!
rosienewmah 2 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Turns out leading bold slab on two days worth of hangover anxiety wasnt the greatest idea
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Turns out leading bold slab on two days worth of hangover anxiety wasnt the greatest idea
Simonroberts1985 9 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places.
Show beta
βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places.
JaySheppard 6 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear.
Butty 22 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route
hotfeet 11 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There\'s a loose hold near the top of the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's a loose hold near the top of the climb.
JamesHopper 29 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about
Show beta
βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about
JManfredi 27 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better
Show beta
βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better
jrobinson 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt
Llosgi 14 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top.
Show beta
βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top.
FerClimbs 28 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall.
Show beta
βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall.
AngusAnderson 4 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam)
Show beta
βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam)
iainJ 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack
Show beta
βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack
lithos 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd
Show beta
βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd

Logged Ascents

3298 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Australia

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 477 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 493
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 447
Votes cast 425
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cemetery Gates

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

Loading Notifications...