Rockfax Description
The original line of this wall used to start up the tube... until it fell down! Traverse out across the slab passing a bolt before moving up and right to the rusty spike. From here, follow the groove up and left past a cam slot. A hard move past a bolt leads to easier climbing to the level above. Belay way back off a spike and bolt at the base of the wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A curious route above the broken pipe which is fast becoming popular. It has a reputation for being bold in places. Having tethered your belayer down, make a delicate rising traverse rightwards across the slab, past a bolt, to the rusting chain (sling at top) and slanting crack. Climb this via another bolt to finish.
Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Welsh Slate Trad , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , LSMC to do , The Llanberis list , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slab Dreams , Year 2 ticklist , Llidberis , Slate Goals , Dewimpification
User | Date | Notes | ||
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David Clover | 25 May |
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βeta: Double up on cam size 4 if you value holding power.... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Double up on cam size 4 if you value holding power.... |
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Becky Habgood | 23 Apr |
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βeta: Bolt near top spins! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bolt near top spins! |
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rosienewmah | 2 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Turns out leading bold slab on two days worth of hangover anxiety wasnt the greatest idea | βeta? | |
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βeta: Turns out leading bold slab on two days worth of hangover anxiety wasnt the greatest idea |
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Simonroberts1985 | 9 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places. |
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JaySheppard | 6 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear. |
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Butty | 22 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route |
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hotfeet | 11 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: There\'s a loose hold near the top of the climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's a loose hold near the top of the climb. |
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JamesHopper | 29 May, 2021 |
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βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about | ||
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βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about |
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JManfredi | 27 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better | ||
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βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better |
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jrobinson | 17 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt | βeta? | |
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βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt |
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Llosgi | 14 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top. | ||
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βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top. |
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FerClimbs | 28 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall. | ||
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βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall. |
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AngusAnderson | 4 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam) | ||
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βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam) |
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iainJ | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack | ||
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βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack |
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lithos | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd | ||
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βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)