Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

22m.

Rockfax Description
An entertaining route which starts delicately up the perched metal tube to gain the wall. An initial tricky pull gains the wall and eventually the line of bore-holes, which are usually filled with water. An access bolt above allows you to abseil down and dry them out with a rag. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start by climbing the metal pipe(be gentle), a stiff pull allows one to meander up the lower wall until a hard move left gains access to the line of shot holes . Yard up these with glee to a tricky rockover before the belay.

F.A Jon Ratcliffe 23/07/08 Named by, and in honour of, the Great man himself, the big G, Mr Geoooorge Smith. Originally bolted by George back in the day, not sure which day, possibly a Thursday..

Ticklists

Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Slate 2018/2019 , Recommended Slate

Feedback

User Date Notes
The9inger 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pipe appears to be missing from the route, struggled to get on the route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pipe appears to be missing from the route, struggled to get on the route

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Supermassive Black Hole

Grade: 7a ***
(Twll Mawr)

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