Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

18m.

Rockfax Description
The groove has a hard start, but eases shortly after the second bolt, to give nice sustained climbing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Hard reachy/awkward start, eases off after third bolt. Poorly bolted, 2nd bolt should be lower.

R.Deane, P.Hawkins 1986.

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials , Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6b & 6b+ , Rock cats getting strong , Starred Slate Sport Sixes , Slate Mastery , The Llanberis list , Slate Pyramid , Recommended Slate

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User Date Notes
Tall Oak 22 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: With second clip in form the start. Takes the sting out of the route. Call it a 1/2 top rope hero come lead
βeta?
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βeta: With second clip in form the start. Takes the sting out of the route. Call it a 1/2 top rope hero come lead
Tom66 30 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Large, loose flake on right hand side mid-way up, so belayer beware!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large, loose flake on right hand side mid-way up, so belayer beware!
jrobinson 8 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom step up block has broken completely, so the start now requires a dynamic move up to the first sharp crimps, which is harder for the short. The right hand flake near the 2nd bolt is sounding more hollow and there is some movement.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bottom step up block has broken completely, so the start now requires a dynamic move up to the first sharp crimps, which is harder for the short. The right hand flake near the 2nd bolt is sounding more hollow and there is some movement.
FerClimbs 28 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I disagree with the description. Bolting is spaced out but I don't think it is poor.
βeta?
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βeta: I disagree with the description. Bolting is spaced out but I don't think it is poor.
joetoad667 17 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: crooks around the 3rd bolt, remember the wall behind you!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: crooks around the 3rd bolt, remember the wall behind you!

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 115
Votes cast 145
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slab Rog

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Australia)

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