UKH

50m, 3 pitches. Deviates out right from the Original Route above the first belay, then finishes directly up the steep crack in the centre of the face. Easier and better, though not without its appropriate share of sand and birds.

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Classic Far Northwest , Ultimate Scottish Rock , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , MIA logbook must haves! , Summer Trip 2014 , Ultimate Sea Stack , UK Holiday Plans , EUMC - Must do climbs , STAUMC Ticklist , Scottish Multipitch Seacliffs (S - E2) , The Big Three , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Summer 2021

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User Date Notes
67hours 25 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Descent notes from other posters are spot on. There’s a faint track in the grass over the headland from the bike dump co-ordinate (211639) to the cliff path: no need to go down to the beach and back up. Look for the actual gullies leading down, and then locate the small cairn on the path between two of them. The path down is more of a grassy ramp than a fully itself. We crossed at mid tide to the low point in the rocks opposite. Gave plenty of time and swum back 1hr after low tide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descent notes from other posters are spot on. There’s a faint track in the grass over the headland from the bike dump co-ordinate (211639) to the cliff path: no need to go down to the beach and back up. Look for the actual gullies leading down, and then locate the small cairn on the path between two of them. The path down is more of a grassy ramp than a fully itself. We crossed at mid tide to the low point in the rocks opposite. Gave plenty of time and swum back 1hr after low tide.
Calum3610 18 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Number 4 cam useful for pitches 2 and 3.
Show beta
βeta: Number 4 cam useful for pitches 2 and 3.
gkerr123 10 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: unless you want to go all the way to the beach see our beta under original route. to avoid confusion- the cairn that we made is east of the stack(Am Buchaille) but west of gully with small stack at bottom
Show beta
βeta: unless you want to go all the way to the beach see our beta under original route. to avoid confusion- the cairn that we made is east of the stack(Am Buchaille) but west of gully with small stack at bottom
Adamcsyou 3 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Surprisingly nice route. No approach notes in the guidebook - we cycled in the first 3km and then walked the last 3 to the beach. You've to go all the way until you hit dunes, then start back up along the cliffs, path the whole way. The decent is marked by a wee cairn in between the two gullies to the East of the stack. Quite steep and a bit muddy in places, walking poles maybe nice if you're of a nervous disposition? We reached the base 3 hours before low tide (we're slow climbers) and the channel was way too rough, almost gave up. 2 hours before low tide it gets much calmer as a low point in the rock comes clear. Water wasn't too cold and no one saw us swim across in the nip First pitch was steep on good holds, but it was very run out and a football sized block came away under my foot... Felt quite serious despite the relatively easy climbing. Second pitch was beautiful, traversed around along the big ledge to the lovely clean crack with good gear (difficult to protect the traverse for second but it is a big ledge). The overhanging crack was amazing, short very steep section pulling up on three massive horns! Linked the last two pitches with a bit of rope drag. Anchors and rope in good nick at the top but at the top of the first belay a lot of the pegs are looking very rusted. Trusted it because there are about 6 of them and I didn't think they'd all break...
Show beta
βeta: Surprisingly nice route. No approach notes in the guidebook - we cycled in the first 3km and then walked the last 3 to the beach. You've to go all the way until you hit dunes, then start back up along the cliffs, path the whole way. The decent is marked by a wee cairn in between the two gullies to the East of the stack. Quite steep and a bit muddy in places, walking poles maybe nice if you're of a nervous disposition? We reached the base 3 hours before low tide (we're slow climbers) and the channel was way too rough, almost gave up. 2 hours before low tide it gets much calmer as a low point in the rock comes clear. Water wasn't too cold and no one saw us swim across in the nip First pitch was steep on good holds, but it was very run out and a football sized block came away under my foot... Felt quite serious despite the relatively easy climbing. Second pitch was beautiful, traversed around along the big ledge to the lovely clean crack with good gear (difficult to protect the traverse for second but it is a big ledge). The overhanging crack was amazing, short very steep section pulling up on three massive horns! Linked the last two pitches with a bit of rope drag. Anchors and rope in good nick at the top but at the top of the first belay a lot of the pegs are looking very rusted. Trusted it because there are about 6 of them and I didn't think they'd all break...
ChuckMaurice 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Descent gully appallingly loose in the bottom third. Great belay ledges on VS route. Gear sparse on P1. Funky moves out of the belay at the start of P2. Hard (for mere mortals) final move out of the crack on P3.
Show beta
βeta: Descent gully appallingly loose in the bottom third. Great belay ledges on VS route. Gear sparse on P1. Funky moves out of the belay at the start of P2. Hard (for mere mortals) final move out of the crack on P3.

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Guidebooks for Am Buachaille

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Route of Interest

The Great Stac of Handa - Great Arch/Munro Route

Grade: VS ***
(Great Stack of Handa)
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