130m. A great route with plenty of exposure but not too much in the way of difficulty. There is the odd bolt and peg, but this is a trad route so take a rack. Start just to the right of a large block, 10m from the left-hand edge of the grassy ramp.
1) 4c, 25m. Scramble up to the right of the block, pass behind it and climb the groove above. The crux of the whole route is midway up the groove and can be 'circumnavigated' with a pull on a handily placed peg. Belay on the ridge crest.
2) 4a, 30m. Traverse rightwards just below the ridge crest for 5m and then cross the ledge to reach twin cracks. Climb these easily to an exposed belay on the crest.
3) 3b, 25m. Follow a vague ledge system, in a spectacular position, to a block belay beneath a steep tower.
4) 4b, 15m. Climb the tower, pausing to take in the exposure, and climb over a small summit to a belay at the top of slabs on the north side of the ridge.
5) 4a, 20m. Downclimb the slabs before reclimbing up to a notch and passing back onto the south side of the ridge. Follow a ledge to a belay underneath the final summit ridge.
6) 3c, 15m. Scramble up to a notch in the ridge and then climb it directly to reach the flat summit arête. Belay halfway along this and then traverse easily across it and downclimb to the abseil point which marks the start of the descent. © Rockfax
Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , CUMC Ticklist , Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Intro to Alpine , Alpine Progression
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