80m, 2 pitches. Start on the ledge as for Rebuffat-Baquet. Step right onto the arete and follow the bolts to a finger crack which widens and curves rightwards to a bolted belay ledge. (40m)
Continue following the line of bolts on a fairly blank slab trending left to a corner which holds a few pegs. Climb this engaging corner to the top and finish at a junction with Contamine. (40m)
From here, you can continue to the top via Voie Kohlmann or Contamine. Alternatively, abseil off from here.

G. Hopfgartner & M. Piola 16/Apr/1983.


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User Date Notes
cbee12 30 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is 6c not 6a.
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is 6c not 6a.

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Guidebooks for Aiguille du Midi

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High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Roger Baxter-Jones Directissime

Grade: TD ***
(Mont Maudit)

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