III, 600m, 8-10 hours. A classic mixed climb of the Aiguilles. The route was originally climbed by Rébuffat and Terray in the 1940's as a summer route but due to bad rock and damp conditions it didn't become a classic. In the 1970's Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse climbed it as a mixed route (knowing from Scotland that damp, mossy rock lends well to good mixed climbing) and it has become an enduring classic. Therefore, it is also referred to as the 'Carrington-Rouse' as well.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb a steep, blocky step that gives access to a ramp system that gives access to the large snow slopes beneath the Plan seracs.
2) Quickly move up and right across the easy snow slopes for a couple of rope lengths towards a steeper gully.
3) Climb this gully in a couple of pitches to reach a second snowfield. Its steepness varies from 50 degrees to steps of 80.
4) Cross the snowfield, trending up and right to a series of chimneys (belay below).
5) Climb the chimney-gully for two pitches.
6) Climb further corners and some slabby icy ground to a tricky mixed step which is overcome by torquing round on the right.
7) Continue up the icy corners to easier ground gives way to a snowfield and the junction with Beyond...
8) From the back left-hand side of the snowfield, climb mixed gullies (85 degrees) above, linking patches of ice for two pitches to the top of a corner that ends in a roof.
9) From here, pendulum left (fixed sling), to an ice gully (80 degrees) that leads to the Col des Pélerins. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
[Damilano - V 5 M; AC - ED2] A superb route that had become a classic of its type. It finishes at the Col des Pelerins (3275m) between the Pointe des Pelerins and the Aiguille des Pelerins. The route follows a rightward-leaning line of ramps and ice-filled corners. Climb the wall to the right of the gully (possible serac fall). Climb directly up a short wall (5c, delicate mixed, snow-plastered rock) and further rock (50m) to snow slopes. Follow these up right (100m) to the first step. Climb a series of gullies (110m, 75º, to reach main snow field. Trend rightward across this to the base to a line of chimneys and corners (60m). Climb these in SEVEN 60m pitches to the Col des Pelerins. P1 - up; P2 - up, then trend left 10m; P3 - up, bolt, then crux mixed step right and up; P4 - up, then exit R onto small snowfield; P5 - up snowfield, then steep mixed chimney; P6 - shorter pitch, continue up chimney then step R; P7 - thin groove to obvious roof, then pendulum L, up. Abseil down route or descend SW face.
Rebuffat & Terray 10/Aug/1944; Rab Carrington & Al Rouse as an ice route 7-8 Feb 1975.
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