Rockfax Description
II, 170m. One of the best rock climbs in this book, this is a real classic of the area, with a combination of slabby and steep climbing. All the belays are bolted and there is the odd bolt on the bolder sections but you'll need a full rack.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the flake and slab above to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 25m. Follow the slab just to the left of a corner.
3) 6a, 30m. Go up right from the belay and make a few thin moves leftwards to avoid a small roof (bolted). Carry on up more easily to a belay in a stunning spot.
4) 4c, 30m. Enjoyable slab climbing leads to a small ledge.
5) 4c, 25m. Follow the seam out leftwards and then straight up to belay 10m right of South Ridge.
6) 5c, 25m. Head out right and then climb straight up the steep slab. Move out right where this becomes vertical and then follow another slab to join South Ridge.
7) 4a, 15m. The final pitch of South Ridge.
Descent - Abseil down the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Partially bolted slab climbing on perfect red granite.
Fran?ois Burnier.
Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alpine Dreamz , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Summer easier alpine
User | Date | Notes | ||
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iainJ | 13 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Small crack in the bolt hanger protecting the step across the overlap at the crux. Easily backed up with a cam, but probably fine. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Small crack in the bolt hanger protecting the step across the overlap at the crux. Easily backed up with a cam, but probably fine. |
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tintinandpip | 14 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great ski in from Gran Montets, about 3 hours. Perfect granite, faff free ab, an hour on skis from the route leads to the bar in the valley ! Perfect | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great ski in from Gran Montets, about 3 hours. Perfect granite, faff free ab, an hour on skis from the route leads to the bar in the valley ! Perfect |
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Cbulman | 3 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nearly all hard moves are bolted. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Nearly all hard moves are bolted. |
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Grade: TD- 6a ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)