II, 240m. The classic of the sector, featuring fantastic corners and cracks. The belays are on pegs and the occasional bolts.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the left side of the block then up a corner.
2) 6a, 30m. Climb the wide crack. Large cams can be useful!
3) 5b, 45m. Climb the corner passing a two piton belay. At this point climb a flake on the right then cross left.
4) 5c, 45m. Climb the steep corner.
5) 6a, 45m. Climb the corner to a roof and then traverse left, passing over the crest and climbing to a belay above.
6) 5b, 35m. Climb a crack and overhang and then the corner above. Exit on the left to a large ledge.
Descent - Abseil down the route. © Rockfax
Ravanel & Simatos 1972.
Alpine Dreamz , Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed. , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range
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