Restricted Access

WARNING- (see comments) The semi-detached boss at the left of the crag is moving away and will eventually fall apart. Please DO NOT climb or hang on it - if you pull it off, it could kill you.

No problems with access. From Edinburgh head to Blackford hill. The quarry can be found on the south side besides Blackford Glen.
Park either in the Edinburgh Observatory car park, on Braid Hills drive or on Blackford Glen Road - park in designated areas, don't block the access to the farms and to Edinburgh Council waste centre.

Traverse leftwards starting on two glued holds just left of the black slab on the extreme right. Drop down below a chossy band of rock for 5m then drop very low around a big solid orange boss shield to reach a resting spot. Next follow a shelf system left past the low bore hole on sloping holds and poor footholds. There is one decent foothold close to the ground that unlocks this section. A hard drop under move blocks access to the finish at the shield feature in middle of the crag. Has also been done L-R at the same grade.

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