Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

9m. Some use of the right-hand arete at this grade (but avoid moving too far right). Some quite necky clips.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K

Feedback

User Date Notes
mike hope 24 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: See next route for update
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mike hope 23 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Beware of the dodgy maillon - refer the next routes feedback.
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βeta: Beware of the dodgy maillon - refer the next routes feedback.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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