Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)
NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.
Rockfax Description
The corner on the left side of the buttress, moving right at the top to the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
CAUTION: A big block of boulder became very loose and unstable towards the top of the route, just before it goes up and right for the anchors. Avoid if possible. (21/03/2020)
The leftmost of a trio of small routes at the right end of the amphitheatre
User | Date | Notes | ||
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rich432 | 21 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Utter sandbag, polished and dirty. Used by people to toprope for kids and beginners a lot, hence the polish. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Utter sandbag, polished and dirty. Used by people to toprope for kids and beginners a lot, hence the polish. |
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combatrock | 3 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Flake at top left hand side is a definite DO NOT TOUCH! The whole block moves and flexes, be careful. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Flake at top left hand side is a definite DO NOT TOUCH! The whole block moves and flexes, be careful. |
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sianabanana | 25 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Large flake at top is about to go. Like TV size | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Large flake at top is about to go. Like TV size |
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