Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)
NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.
Rockfax Description
An enormous, high quality main pitch that links some of the best bits of other nearby lines and adds some hard sections of its own. Start as for Hyena Cage.
1) 5b, 20m. As for Hyena Cage to its upper ledges. Move up right to a stance at pegs under the flared rib between the lines of Hyena Cage and the corner of The Jackal.
2) 6a, 50m. Ascend the flared rib on its left to a bolt and then on up the rib itself to another bolt. Move up to a foothold on the slab above (peg) and pull over the bulge (thread in place) to gain a corner and horizontal break. Bridge up the corner above the break and then launch out rightwards past overhangs to a crack and follow it a short distance to a large horizontal break. Make difficult moves over a bulge above the break to enter a groove and follow this to the terrace. Belay below the upper tier.
3) 4a, 12m. The wide corner-crack left of an overhung ledge leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
5b, 6a, 4a. A fantastic big route forcing a direct line up GO Wall taking in sections on the Jackal and Hyena Cage
P1 is getting a bit vegetated again so clean as you go. The arete is delicate and bold feeling (protected by 2 spaced 12mm bolts), but the rest is well protected. On the bulges if a hold feels poor just keep pulling they soon get better!
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gary Gibson | 26 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Matt ward | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Matt ward |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Hope Mansel)