Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Climb the short wall as for Jacqui Big Tits, then from the good ledge, make some hard fingery pulls to better holds that lead up to steeper ground. More tough moves up the bulging wall and a final swing up past the overhang gain good holds and a lower-off in the wall above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
LH bolted line in the east wall of Woodcroft Quarry, up mostly black rock to a pale bulge. Very hard F6c+ crux getting off the ledge for the short, then jugs lead to the normal F6c crux and fun swinging around to finish.
6Cs with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Matthew Bosworth | 25 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Big layoff just above the hard bolt has a slight wobble, felt a lot happier when I got beyond it.... | ||
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βeta: Big layoff just above the hard bolt has a slight wobble, felt a lot happier when I got beyond it.... |
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Martino90 | 14 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: One big block on the left after the crux move sounded a bit hollow so keep an eye on that while climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: One big block on the left after the crux move sounded a bit hollow so keep an eye on that while climbing. |
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Martino90 | 7 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Be aware of loose rock on the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Be aware of loose rock on the top. |
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hutster781 | 9 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Climbed beyond the bolt ( upper crux) to the large hold before clipping Sustained and reachy above Tougher for the short | ||
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βeta: Climbed beyond the bolt ( upper crux) to the large hold before clipping Sustained and reachy above Tougher for the short |
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