Rockfax Description
E1. A good introduction to the wall. The start is loose. Start at the top of the slope below a leftwards slanting fault. 1) 5+, 25m. Up the fault and follow this to a hard move round the arete to a crack. Up to a small roof and over this to a belay.2) 5+, 25m. Traverse along the break to the next bay and follow the line below the overlap (peg), pull over a wall to a groove which is followed. Move right to a good ledge and bolt belay.3) 6a, 30m. Climb the steep wall on the right (2 threads) to follow the fault-line right to a steep corner. Move up, then left, and climb direct to a small ledge (thread/nut belays).4) 5, 45m. Climb the steepening slab and a short crack. Up this to a ledge and tree. Head up left to below the top wall.5) 5, 40m. As for Vía de Polop. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, C.Moreton, B.Rynne 2001.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 21 Apr, 2020 |
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βeta: Adventurous, mostly HVS, but with a hard UK 5b/5c third pitch. Enjoyable and in a brilliant location. Some threads of various qualities and some belays are bolted (first two), but not all (third there is a dubious thread that definitely needs backing up). Although the threads make, e.g., the second pitch a bit of a clip-up, a decent range of gear is needed to protect the route as a whole, especially the crux. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Adventurous, mostly HVS, but with a hard UK 5b/5c third pitch. Enjoyable and in a brilliant location. Some threads of various qualities and some belays are bolted (first two), but not all (third there is a dubious thread that definitely needs backing up). Although the threads make, e.g., the second pitch a bit of a clip-up, a decent range of gear is needed to protect the route as a whole, especially the crux. |
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Heike | 3 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: First pitch was horribly loose. 2nd pitch also pretty loose.3rd pitch was great. Go straight up not rightwards. Only about 20 metres not 30. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First pitch was horribly loose. 2nd pitch also pretty loose.3rd pitch was great. Go straight up not rightwards. Only about 20 metres not 30. |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Ponoch)