The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
The wall right of the corner of La BĂȘte Noire is climbed on black holds to a move right that reaches a black seam and flake crack. Follow the rib above to the roof and pass it on the right to finish up easier ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Right hand side of In Extremis Buttress
Start in the gully right of La Bete Noire. Climb the wall on black curious holds until it is possible to step on to the arete. Arrange good gear in the vertical finger crack right of the arete and then make a long move to a good hold. Step up on the left of the arete. Make a series of thin moves rightwards with poor footholds and climb strenuously up into the niche directly above. Finish easily to a grassy platform. Tree belays well back.
James Mann Adrian Parsons 30/May/2014.
Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Rick Sewards | 31 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The line and description in the Dartmoor guide are not quite right for the start - it starts on the wall above and right of La Bete Noire and climbs diagonally left to the arete before climbing the short thin crack (according to James, who ought to know being the first ascensionist!) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The line and description in the Dartmoor guide are not quite right for the start - it starts on the wall above and right of La Bete Noire and climbs diagonally left to the arete before climbing the short thin crack (according to James, who ought to know being the first ascensionist!) |
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Grade: E1 5a ***
(The Dewerstone)