Rockfax Description
The long groove is a fine line with some interesting rock but the name is becoming more apt as the years roll by. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Just right of Augean.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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MingDynasty | 29 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Gear can pull out on upper part because of rope angle | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gear can pull out on upper part because of rope angle |
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nickcanute | 14 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: Descent is easier by ascending slope a bit then traversing a short distance right looking in, then down solo or abseil mineshaft. Ab station in situ | βeta? | |
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βeta: Descent is easier by ascending slope a bit then traversing a short distance right looking in, then down solo or abseil mineshaft. Ab station in situ |
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Neil Foster | 18 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Great effort by nickcanue clearing the ivy from this long abandoned climb. Unfortunately he missed a dangerous loose block just below the exit, which nearly did for my belayer when my rope knocked it off as I scrambled, unsighted up the thorny slope to the belay tree. She managed to clear a lot more loose rock off from this point as she followed the route, and I pulled off further blocks as I abbed off. I think most of the loose rock is now on the ground, but be aware and take care on the exit. Also I suggest the next leader carries secateurs to clear the rosehips from the exit slope, plus a short length of rope and an old screwgate to leave on the belay tree for abbing. The tree is set well back, so try not to cross your ropes when abbing off, or it will be very hard to retrieve your ropes from the ground (though the krab will help a lot). If all this is enough to put you off(!), it shouldn’t, as this route is very worthwhile and hasn’t been climbable for many years.... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great effort by nickcanue clearing the ivy from this long abandoned climb. Unfortunately he missed a dangerous loose block just below the exit, which nearly did for my belayer when my rope knocked it off as I scrambled, unsighted up the thorny slope to the belay tree. She managed to clear a lot more loose rock off from this point as she followed the route, and I pulled off further blocks as I abbed off. I think most of the loose rock is now on the ground, but be aware and take care on the exit. Also I suggest the next leader carries secateurs to clear the rosehips from the exit slope, plus a short length of rope and an old screwgate to leave on the belay tree for abbing. The tree is set well back, so try not to cross your ropes when abbing off, or it will be very hard to retrieve your ropes from the ground (though the krab will help a lot). If all this is enough to put you off(!), it shouldn’t, as this route is very worthwhile and hasn’t been climbable for many years.... |
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slacky | 18 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Really good route now its clean, worthy of at least one, if not two stars. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really good route now its clean, worthy of at least one, if not two stars. |
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nickcanute | 17 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Entire route cleaned, ivy and loose rock removed July 2020 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Entire route cleaned, ivy and loose rock removed July 2020 |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage Plantation)