Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
An earlier climb with the same name as route 21. Climb a tricky slanting crack then trend back up the left edge of the scoop. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Max Hangs | 18 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Straight onto the arete from the ledge (with last decent gear at feet and poor, then no hands) looked desperate and way off for the grade. Went right to cracks then back left up the ramp to the arete. A poor route. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Straight onto the arete from the ledge (with last decent gear at feet and poor, then no hands) looked desperate and way off for the grade. Went right to cracks then back left up the ramp to the arete. A poor route. |
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| Fidget | 2 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I led this, but had to climb the corner for a couple of moves, otherwise it seemed more like E3. I'm assuming this was the right thing to do? It's a shame there isn't a couple more holds on the face to make the line stand-alone, as I enjoyed the rest of the climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I led this, but had to climb the corner for a couple of moves, otherwise it seemed more like E3. I'm assuming this was the right thing to do? It's a shame there isn't a couple more holds on the face to make the line stand-alone, as I enjoyed the rest of the climbing. |
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| Iain Thow | 17 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pity about the line, but some nice moves | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pity about the line, but some nice moves |
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| Offwidth | 25 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good awkward HS 4c start a pointless middle bit and a slightly dissapointing HS 4a finish. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A good awkward HS 4c start a pointless middle bit and a slightly dissapointing HS 4a finish. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Saul's Arête
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Plantation)