Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
Start just left of the arete and follow the crack to the top. Variation, E1 5b - traverse right from high on the route to reach another crack. © Rockfax
FA. D.Armstrong, P.Whillance, J.Lamb 31/Dec/1976.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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NuclearNev | 12 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: I've seen loads of failed attempts and falls on this over the years. Worthy of VS 5a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I've seen loads of failed attempts and falls on this over the years. Worthy of VS 5a. |
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drcorbasisgod | 3 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Hard for VS, though I disagree that Front Line is easier; I did both of these climbs in the same week. With good footwork you can make the crux less of a struggle! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hard for VS, though I disagree that Front Line is easier; I did both of these climbs in the same week. With good footwork you can make the crux less of a struggle! |
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steveej | 8 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Hard for the grade, need lots of 'big crack' gear | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hard for the grade, need lots of 'big crack' gear |
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john horscroft | 21 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Harder than Army Dreamers! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Harder than Army Dreamers! |
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Chris the Tall | 17 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Quite strenous, felt hard for the grade | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite strenous, felt hard for the grade |
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Grade: VS ***
(Lydstep Point Area)