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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

27m.

Rockfax Description
A superdirect that has plenty of interest. Start at a boulder on the ground just left of the ...One for All crack. Move up to and out of the niche, then ascend the wall above to a vegetated ledge. Climb direct to meet the overlap of No Musketeers and continue via the No Musketeers (Direct Finish). © Rockfax

C Heard, J Jones 10/Jun/2007.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lunar Bass

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)

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