Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
The eye-catching long flake crack is a classic line and not one for the unfit or those lacking conviction. © Rockfax
R. Kingston, M. Ward 21/Aug/1984.
Ticklists
Orange Spot Lower Wye , Shorn Cliff Nose , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 2020/21 Trips , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , 23 HVS routes for 2023 , Road to lundy
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| just one more | 30 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top third of this route is close to collapse, tread very carefully | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The top third of this route is close to collapse, tread very carefully |
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| Mattress | 15 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are some very scary perched blocks near the top of this route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There are some very scary perched blocks near the top of this route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Red Rose Speedway
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Symonds Yat)