The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
Climb the crack through the bulge to a ledge on the left then the delicate wall via a thin seam trending rightwards. Tiny wires offer some protection. © Rockfax
FA. Roger Greatrick 1983.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fiend | 13 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: A fine and very clean route. The crux over the roof seems depressingly friction-dependent initially, but goes via a nice sequence. The easier, but not easy, face above is reasonably protected if you're loaded up with RPs, Offsets, Peenuts, small cams, filed down sliders, stacked micro nut-keys etc etc... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A fine and very clean route. The crux over the roof seems depressingly friction-dependent initially, but goes via a nice sequence. The easier, but not easy, face above is reasonably protected if you're loaded up with RPs, Offsets, Peenuts, small cams, filed down sliders, stacked micro nut-keys etc etc... |
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ste | 17 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: re karl. we do now you've told us | βeta? | |
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βeta: re karl. we do now you've told us |
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north country boy | 14 May, 2005 |
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βeta: The nuts after lip are reasonable, but once your there its easy moves up the face above! Nice route though! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The nuts after lip are reasonable, but once your there its easy moves up the face above! Nice route though! |
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Alan James - Rockfax | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: As Simon says, reasonable sidways wires just below, plus the moves above are only around 5a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: As Simon says, reasonable sidways wires just below, plus the moves above are only around 5a. |
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UKB Shark | 8 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: the tiny wires can be backed up by some cunning 'half-in'larger wires which bite just enough | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: the tiny wires can be backed up by some cunning 'half-in'larger wires which bite just enough |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)