Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

11m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the crack through the bulge to a ledge on the left then the delicate wall via a thin seam trending rightwards. Tiny wires offer some protection. © Rockfax

FA. Roger Greatrick 1983.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 13 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A fine and very clean route. The crux over the roof seems depressingly friction-dependent initially, but goes via a nice sequence. The easier, but not easy, face above is reasonably protected if you're loaded up with RPs, Offsets, Peenuts, small cams, filed down sliders, stacked micro nut-keys etc etc...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fine and very clean route. The crux over the roof seems depressingly friction-dependent initially, but goes via a nice sequence. The easier, but not easy, face above is reasonably protected if you're loaded up with RPs, Offsets, Peenuts, small cams, filed down sliders, stacked micro nut-keys etc etc...
ste 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: re karl. we do now you've told us
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: re karl. we do now you've told us
north country boy 14 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The nuts after lip are reasonable, but once your there its easy moves up the face above! Nice route though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The nuts after lip are reasonable, but once your there its easy moves up the face above! Nice route though!
Alan James - Rockfax 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: As Simon says, reasonable sidways wires just below, plus the moves above are only around 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As Simon says, reasonable sidways wires just below, plus the moves above are only around 5a.
UKB Shark 8 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: the tiny wires can be backed up by some cunning 'half-in'larger wires which bite just enough
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the tiny wires can be backed up by some cunning 'half-in'larger wires which bite just enough

Logged Ascents

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High E4
Mid E4
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
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Votes cast 32
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 33
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Time for Tea

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)

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