Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb finish to Truant - well protected and photogenic. Can be done in a single pitch with many long quickdraws and slings.
1) 4a,15m. Follow Truant to the first ledge at about half height. Belay in the recess on the right.
2) 5b, 33m. Move up the slab on the left, then use two large pockets to ascend the steep wall on the right. Traverse a red-coloured slab into a groove. Move up this until a prominent undercut flake enables an exposed traverse to the right to the arete of the fin. Climb this to finish on the saddle. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Target Routes 2019/2020

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High E1
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High VS
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Votes cast 8
High 5c
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Concrete Dream

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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