Restricted Access
No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Starting in a crouched position on two opposing holds 2m from the back of the hanging belly of rock. Compress your way up through the steepness and into a hanging ear shaped hold on the upper right side of the boulder where the rock turns vertical.
James Taylor & Sam Tollhurst 07/Oct/2022.
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Logged Ascents
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Battle of the Bilge
Grade: f7C+ ***
(Fedw Fawr)