Restricted Access
No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
A sustained and well-protected route up the corner-groove to the right of the large fin. Climb the corner for 10m then traverse left to a good rest just below the fin. Continue up the crack/flake that leads up and right to a roof. Some thrutching leads to some hollow flakes. These enable an exit to be made from the vice-like niche to a rather fine bridged position on the lip. More steep ground needs to be covered before you reach the sanctuary of the final easier groove. Care needed to avoid rope drag! © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Gogarth life list
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simon King | 8 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cannot believe this is not a 3* route; absolutely brilliant and not hard for the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cannot believe this is not a 3* route; absolutely brilliant and not hard for the grade. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn
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The Maze
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)